VARANASI- SIMPLY MYSTICAL

In the seven years of my travel life, I have traversed into numerous geographical and cultural boundaries. But none could match the kaleidoscope of experiences that Benaras puts on plate. The mystical Ganges, the cinematic Ghats, the tempting street food, the historic architecture, the mysterious alleys, the spiritual vibes – Varanasi titillates your senses in more ways than one.

Good morning Ganges

An early morning boat ride over the Ganges unfolds exciting glimpses of life in Benaras. As you sail through the sleepy Ghats, each comes alive with a different story.

This was a must do on our list, so we headed straight towards Assi Ghat, the only place you could hire a boat from, during wee hours.  We walked past the ash smeared monks on the Ghat, meditating in its serenity of silence; the only sound coming from the people taking dips in the holy river at dawn.

By the time we reached Lali Ghat, the sun had already peeped up and painted the river in golden.  Line of washermen, working in an amazingly synchronized rhythm, created the perfect background score to this picturesque view. Not all the Ghats had the action happening, but our boatman kept us entertained with his bagful of live feed. He told us how poet Tulsi Das wrote the famous Indian epic Ramcharitmanas on the Tulsi Ghat, how the Mansarovar Ghat was named after the famous lake in Mount Kailash, Tibet and how the Pashupateshwara Temple on the Lalita Ghat exhibits beautiful wooden architecture in a typical Kathmandu style.

The Dasashwamedh Ghat is the most revered and busiest of all. Being closest to the Vishwanath temple, it bustles with the sound of temple bells, devotional songs and endless calls of the pundits. Little shops sell flowers and other items for puja offerings. Rows of barbers sit on the stairs of the Ghat, cutting hair, shaving and massaging oil at an unbelievable pace.

Our ride ended at the Manikarnika Ghat. With its huge assembly of burning pyres and piles of logs, this blessed cremation ground is believed to be the “Gateway to Heaven” among the Hindus.

Salvation through Stomach

It is said that nobody sleeps with an empty stomach in Varanasi. The wide platter of sumptuous delicacies stands testimony to it. Our mornings started with the crispy Khasta Kachori (stuffed with hing & daal), complemented with the soft and spicy aloo-sabji and dahi vade at the Kachori Gali near Vishwanath Temple. I could never have enough of this godliness!

The evenings got better with the voluptuous jalebis and nimis (popularly known as malaiyyo). Close to it was the famous Baba Thandai shop at Godowalia. We used to visit there for a tall glass of cool thandai to charge us up after a weary day. On the other end of the lane, there was an Government approved bhang (marijuana) shop, selling bhang based sweets and digestive powders.

No tour in Varanasi is complete without the ubiquitous Banarasi paan. This betel leaf chew is artistically prepared with neatly cut areca nuts, sweet aromatic jams, fennel seeds and a number of secret ingredients. The taste explosion in the mouth is overwhelming.

Nine yards of Fashion

Once here, you just cannot escape the charisma of a delicately woven Benarasi sari. The intricate play of golden silk threads on this objet d’art, marked by elegant colours and flawless designs, left me dumbstruck. Among many other shops was the Ganga Emporium near Shivala Ghat that took us on the gorgeous silk route.

                                                                                                                                                   

In search of nectar

Shehnai maestro Ustad Bismillah Khan once said in his famous witty style: Tum ras dhundte phirtey ho, Ras to yehi bana hua hai- Bana-Ras (You roam around in search of nectar, but it is made here – Bana (Made) Ras (Nectar). The best way to get soaked in the city’s ras is by surrendering yourself completely to the city. Picking a random street from the Dashashwamedh Ghat, I strolled among the galis. At almost every other corner, there was a temple. Every house seemed to have an intense history. Hundred year old buildings stood tall with poise and elegance; waiting to tell stories that were long forgotten.

  

The world’s oldest living city

Varanasi is among the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities, with a history spanning over 3000 years. The name possibly originates from Varuna and Asi, the two minor tributaries of the Ganges that confluence here. The city has been the seat of spiritualism, mysticism, Sanskrit and yoga since ages. Besides, Varanasi has also been the home of several luminaries including novelist Prem Chand, poet Tulsi Das, Mirza Ghalib and shehnai maestro Ustad Bismillah Khan among others.

When the sun goes down, the city lights up

Every day after sunset, the Dasashwamedh Ghat is decked up like a bride, with huge lamps and vibrant lighting. Around ten pundits perform the evening arati amidst melodious chants and the sound of conches playing in the background. The play of lights, the dreamy dance of the waves – and watching all of this from a boat floating over the Ganges was a soul-stirring experience. It took me to a world of ecstasy which is beyond description.

It is hard to pen down Varanasi in words. It is a magical city that’s intoxicating yet calming; exhilarating yet silent; tells a lot about life and yet it remains mysterious. The entire circle of life and things beyond, a rendezvous with one’s self, a clearer insight to the world and a few steps closer to Nirvana - Varanasi reveals itself to the seeker in endless ways.