In the seven years of my travel life, I have traversed into numerous geographical and cultural boundaries. But none could match the kaleidoscope of experiences that Benaras puts on plate. The mystical Ganges, the cinematic Ghats, the tempting street food, the historic architecture, the mysterious alleys, the spiritual vibes – Varanasi titillates your senses in more ways than one.
Good
morning Ganges
An early morning boat ride over
the Ganges unfolds exciting glimpses of life in Benaras. As you sail through
the sleepy Ghats, each comes alive with a different story.
This was a must do on our list,
so we headed straight towards Assi Ghat, the only place you could hire a boat
from, during wee hours. We walked past
the ash smeared monks on the Ghat, meditating in its serenity of silence; the
only sound coming from the people taking dips in the holy river at dawn.
By the time we reached Lali
Ghat, the sun had already peeped up and painted the river in golden. Line of washermen, working in an amazingly
synchronized rhythm, created the perfect background score to this picturesque
view. Not all the Ghats had the
action happening, but our boatman kept us entertained with his bagful of live
feed. He told us how poet Tulsi Das wrote the famous Indian epic Ramcharitmanas
on the Tulsi Ghat, how the Mansarovar Ghat was named after the famous lake in
Mount Kailash, Tibet and how the Pashupateshwara Temple on the Lalita Ghat exhibits
beautiful wooden architecture in a typical Kathmandu style.
The Dasashwamedh Ghat is the
most revered and busiest of all. Being closest to the Vishwanath temple, it
bustles with the sound of temple bells, devotional songs and endless calls of
the pundits. Little shops sell
flowers and other items for puja
offerings. Rows of barbers sit on the stairs of the Ghat, cutting hair, shaving
and massaging oil at an unbelievable pace.
Our
ride ended at the Manikarnika Ghat. With its huge assembly of burning pyres and
piles of logs, this blessed cremation ground is believed to be the “Gateway to
Heaven” among the Hindus.
Salvation through Stomach
It is said that nobody sleeps with an empty stomach
in Varanasi. The wide platter of sumptuous delicacies stands testimony to it. Our
mornings started with the crispy Khasta
Kachori (stuffed with hing &
daal), complemented with the soft and spicy aloo-sabji and dahi vade
at the Kachori Gali near Vishwanath
Temple. I could never have enough of this godliness!
The evenings got better with the voluptuous jalebis and nimis (popularly known as malaiyyo).
Close to it was the famous Baba Thandai shop
at Godowalia. We used to visit there for a tall glass of cool thandai to charge us up after a weary
day. On the other end of the lane, there was an Government approved bhang (marijuana) shop, selling bhang
based sweets and digestive powders.
No tour in Varanasi is complete without the
ubiquitous Banarasi paan. This betel
leaf chew is artistically prepared with neatly cut areca nuts, sweet aromatic
jams, fennel seeds and a number of secret ingredients. The taste explosion in
the mouth is overwhelming.
Nine yards of Fashion
Once here, you just cannot escape the charisma of a
delicately woven Benarasi sari. The intricate play of golden silk threads on
this objet d’art, marked by elegant colours and flawless designs, left me
dumbstruck. Among many other shops was the Ganga Emporium near Shivala Ghat that
took us on the gorgeous silk route.
In search of nectar
Shehnai maestro Ustad Bismillah Khan once said in his
famous witty style: Tum ras dhundte
phirtey ho, Ras to yehi bana hua hai- Bana-Ras (You roam around in search
of nectar, but it is made here – Bana (Made)
Ras (Nectar). The best way to get
soaked in the city’s ras is by
surrendering yourself completely to the city. Picking a random street from the
Dashashwamedh Ghat, I strolled among the galis. At almost every other corner,
there was a temple. Every house seemed to have an intense
history. Hundred year old buildings stood tall with poise and elegance; waiting
to tell stories that were long forgotten.
The
world’s oldest living city 
Varanasi
is among the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities, with a history
spanning over 3000 years. The name possibly originates from Varuna and Asi, the
two minor tributaries of the Ganges that confluence here. The city has been the
seat of spiritualism, mysticism, Sanskrit and yoga since ages. Besides,
Varanasi has also been the home of several luminaries including novelist Prem
Chand, poet Tulsi Das, Mirza Ghalib and shehnai
maestro Ustad Bismillah Khan among others.
When the sun goes down, the city lights up
Every day after sunset, the Dasashwamedh Ghat is
decked up like a bride, with huge lamps and vibrant lighting. Around ten pundits perform the evening arati amidst melodious chants and the
sound of conches playing in the background. The play of lights, the dreamy
dance of the waves – and watching all of this from a boat floating over the
Ganges was a soul-stirring experience. It took me to a world of ecstasy which
is beyond description.
It is hard to pen down Varanasi in words. It is a
magical city that’s intoxicating yet calming; exhilarating yet silent; tells a
lot about life and yet it remains mysterious. The entire circle of life and things
beyond, a rendezvous with one’s self, a clearer insight to the world and a few
steps closer to Nirvana - Varanasi reveals itself to the seeker in endless ways.
